Amanda Reber Amanda Reber

Skoki

The famous Fork in the Road.

Quick Facts:
Distance: around 40km in total (not including side trips)
Total Elevation Gain: Approximately 470m
Time: 3 days (two nights)
Campgrounds: Baker Lake, Merlin Meadows

In 2022, I was fortunate enought to be able to hike the Skoki Loop in Banff National Park. There are many ways to complete the loop, and we opted for 3 days, 2 nights, staying at Baker Lake and Hermit Meadows.

We started hiking up the ski out/fire access road for the Lake Louise ski area. This is a very long uphill gravel road, that seems to go on forever. Finally, when your feet hit dirt trail instead of dusty gravel, you get up to the junction to go to Hidden Lake, or continue towards Deception Pass/Ptarmigan Lake/Baker Lake. There is a little shelter called Halfway Hut near this junction that is a historic cabin that used to serve as a rest stop for winter adventurists. Legend has it this little hut is haunted by past skiers who play poker all night and drink rum. I cannot confirm this rumour, as no drunk ghosts were witnessed during my visit.

After a quick snack break, we continued to Boulder Pass, which is probably the most literal named pass I’ve experienced (If you have any other literally named passes you’d like to share, please comment below!)

Halfway Hut (with or without ghosts?)

The boulders were quite impressive and made for some interesting scenery. (Temple mountain in the background)

Boulder pass ends where Ptarmigan Lake begins. When you pass Ptarmigan Lake, be sure to look back, you will experience some pretty stunning views of Redoubt Mountain- (which could slightly resemble a redoubt. I often wonder what goes through the minds of the drunk skiers when they decide what to name each peak.)

Shortly after Ptarmigan Lake and past Deception Pass, is Baker Lake. This is where our first night along Skoki loop took place. There were several warnings prior to our trip about the porcupines at this campsite- and I can confirm those warnings have cause. At some point in the night, there was a porcupine that shuffled its way past my tent, thankfully all my tasty rubbery gear was well out of reach.

Redoubt Mountain with Ptarmigan lake below

Descending towards Baker Lake

The warnings about the mosquitoes and blackflies were also true. Some people were smart and brought a whole screen room to surround the picnic table and eat their meals in. We had to make due with our measly deet spray.

We got up the next morning to a beautiful calm day, which made for a stunning mirror-like reflection of Brachiopod Mountain on Baker Lake, but also clouds of bitey insects.

Baker lake and Brachiopod mountain. Not pictured: bitey insects.

We traveled past Fossil Mountain and tucked in between Fossil Mountain and Skoki mountain to make our way to Merlin Meadows. This was a really short, easy day, so we set up tents and backtracked to Skoki Lodge to take advantage of their Hiker’s tea. After enjoying some overpriced yet well-deserved adult beverages, we decided to head to the stunning Merlin Lake. This lake was truly magical, and will always be an inspiration for many of my paintings.

We made it back to Merlin Meadows at evening in just enough time to catch the sun going down, which cast a glowing golden light on Mt Richardson:

Mt Richardson overlooking Merlin Meadows

Day 3 came with two options, and a literal and figurative fork in the road; we ascend the very straightforward-despite-its-name Deception Pass (we’ll get to that name in a bit), or the slightly more complicated Packer’s Pass. I was feeling very tired this day, so after a lot of discussion, and a smidgen of guilt and regret, we decided Deception Pass was a better choice.

We quickly learned that Deception pass’ name attributes to the fact that it seems very deceiving in it’s height; You will come up over a hill to discover there is yet another hill to ascend. However, once you finally ascend the last hill, the views from the top of the pass were stunning. We had full views of the mountain range behind the Skoki Lakes.

Views from Deception Pass

After descending the pass, and a short visit to the Halfway Hut ghosts, we reluctantly made our way back down the very long gravel road towards the parking lot. This was by far the most difficult part of the hike due to the relentless downhill and the 30 degree celsius heat. Once we got back to the parking lot, we immediately drove to the nearest pub to replenish our spirits, and toast to the ghosts of the Halfway Hut.

The art inspired by the hike

There is no wonder the backcountry campgrounds along this hike get booked so quickly- it is a stunning hike. I’ve gained so much inspiration from this hike, and to date there are 7 paintings I’ve created that represent the experience of the Skoki Valley:

For availability of paintings shown in this blog post, or any blog post, please visit my Paintings page!

Disclaimer: This blog is written purely for entertainment purposes only, and is not meant to be a comprehensive guide to any hikes I accomplish. I encourage readers to research their hikes extensively before pursuing any adventures. And never forget to leave no trace, take nothing but photographs and memories, (or buy my art!) :)

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Amanda Reber Amanda Reber

Elbow Lake to Tombstone - Backcountry Camping

Every year, my good friend Dani and I accomplish at least 1 backcountry camping trip. We usually stay at one campsite, but in the Summer Of 2020, We decided to test our resilience with a multi-day, multi- site backcountry trip. We had been to Elbow Lake a handful of times,but I convinced her to mix it up a bit this time, and we would head to Tombstone for day #2.

The hike to Elbow Lake is an easy 1.3 km uphill climb from the Parking lot. It's a bit of a battle with 30 lbs on your back. This was always our least favourite part, but the grind is totally worth it. Our night at Elbow Lake was slightly smokey,but the golden hour and subsequent sunset was amazing.


View towards Rae Mountain

View towards Rae Mountain

Elpoca mountain and Elbow Lake at sunset

Elpoca mountain and Elbow Lake at sunset


After a slightly rainy night, We had our Oatmeal, packed up, and continued our 6km adventure towards Tombstone. The views along the Elbow Valley are nothing short of stunning. We passed Elpoca Mountain, Edworthy Falls, and the enticing Piper Pass (one hike I hope to accomplish one day).


View towards Tombstone mountain

View towards Tombstone mountain

 
Piper Pass

Piper Pass


After about 6km of easy hiking, We finally arrive at Tombstone backcountry campground. It's a quaint little spot, close to Tombstone creek, and with beautiful views of the valley. I was lucky to hear the distinct call of a Great Horned owl somewhere nearby, who seemed to enjoy the area as much as we did. Once again, we were treated with an amazing sunset, the perfect parting gift from a special place.


Fire pits at Tombstone Backcountry Campground

Fire pits at Tombstone Backcountry Campground

If you’re looking for a fairly flat, easy trek to fulfill your need for adventure, I highly recommend this little multi-day trip.

You will not be disappointed by the views and the vastness of the Elbow Valley.

Overall Distance: 14.8km.


Side Trips

Rae Glacier

4.4 km return from Elbow Lake Campground, approximately 230m elevation gain

View from the cirque right before the glacier

View from the cirque right before the glacier

View of the Glacier

View of the Glacier


Edworthy Falls

Approximately 200m from the main trail between Elbow Lake and Tombstone Campground- trail is marked by a small pile of rocks.

Edworthy falls- yes we did swim in the water, yes it was cold

Edworthy falls- yes we did swim in the water, yes it was cold

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